Saturday, April 27, 2013

Discovering the Royal Mile: Edinburgh, Scotland

Sometimes, one must experience the tourist traps. While experiencing Edinburgh, Scotland, I had to indulge myself by following the path of countless Scottish Royalty, and tourists for that matter, and cruise Edinburgh's famed Royal Mile. Paved in cobblestone and surrounded by centuries old building, the mile begins at Holyrood Palace and finds its end at Edinburgh Castle. Located in the center of Edinburgh, the mile entertains travelers and locals alike with various tourist shops, restaurants, and unique street performers. Attempting to dodge gobs of tourist junk vendors trying desperately to sell cheap Scottish kilts and toy bagpipes, i made my way to my first stop on the mile, Mary King's Close.


Around the beginning of the 1800's, over 100,00 people packed themselves into a 3 square mile in the center of Edinburgh along the Royal Mile. Most of this population lived in 7 to 12 story buildings called "closes" which lined the Royal Mile. In these closes would live the impoverished community, packed 10-12 people in a 15x10 foot room, battling diseases, robbers, poverty and the plague. Mary King was a prominent member of Edinburgh society and therefor had her own close. Around the turn of the 20th century, Edinburgh decided to build afresh their city so they paved a concrete street over the first 2-3 stories of the closes along the mile in order to kick out some of these impoverished folks living there and give there town a fresh look. Today you can pay some money and take a tour of Mary King's close. The guide takes you down under ground to the exquisitely preserved close. The buildings, tunnels and caverns all are still intact and one can get a true sense of what it was like to live there. This close in particular housed plague victims and was the scene of several gruesome murders and kidnappings. Many different paranormal groups claim that it is haunted because of its vile history. The tour guide will even shut the lights off and tell you some ghost stories and paranormal experiences many people have had in the close. I found this experience fascinating. But there is even more to the mile.

Next, we discovered the 500 year old St. Giles Cathedral. It is an iconic Edinburgh landmark with its crown shaped roof and high Gothic architecture. While there, the local choir was practicing for the weekend's mass. It was an enlightening experience to sit in the pews and admire the stain class and architecture while listening to beautiful hymns sung by the choir.

Continuing up the mile, we were able to explore some more shops and pubs. The pub culture, like most of the UK, is front and center in Scottish culture. They truly pride themselves on their delicately aged Scotch Whiskey and different home brewed beers and are always eager to help tourist try some select vintages.

Our adventure up the mile was capped off by several street performances including the musical stylings of a group of bagpipers. Yeah I know its
touristy but its something you need to experience
while discovering Edinburgh.

The Royal Mile is steeped in history, centuries old architecture, entertaining street performers, and the occasional paranormal experience. When traveling to Edinburgh, the Royal Mile is a must experience and in the end, it will lead you to Edinburgh Castle which is an experience in and of itself. Cheers.

Sunday, April 14, 2013

Learning to "Grok : Take 5 Steps

Robert A. Heinlein wrote in his 1961 novel "Stranger in a Strange Land",  "We must grok in fullness". What does it mean to grok in fullness, or rather what does grok even mean? The dictionary defines grok as to understand something intuitively or through empathy, or becoming one with someone/something through empathy. Well how do we gain empathy then? The answer is simple, we put ourselves in the shoes of others.

This is one of the most fundamental principles of travel. We travel to see new places, experience new things, and put ourselves in the shoes of people who presently live in those destinations or situations as well as the people who have lived in years past in those destinations and situations. Through their eyes, we began to become empathetic and truly understand cultures, history, and day-to-day life of people around the world. Thus we truly can "grok" destinations and truly experience what it means to travel.

To be more specific, I would like you to consider taking these 5 simple steps in order that you may learn to "grok" your next travel experience. The prescription is simple. It involves conscientiously using your five senses on a daily basis while you travel. Ready, set, grok:

   1. Look to See: This is a given, every day try to see something new that you have never seen before.  
       Try to look for things other than what you thought you came to that place to see.

   2. Listen to Hear: Every day,take  
       a few minutes, find a relaxing  
       place while at your destination,
       close your eyes, and listen to the
       sounds around you. Strive to
       listen for things you wouldn't
       normally pick up on. For me, i
       loved to do this in Europe. I
       loved to hear the conversations
       in an outdoor cafe, listen to the
       symphony of cowbells in a
       Swiss pasture, and listening to
       water gushing through mountain
       streams.

   3. Touch to Feel:  Every day,
       touch something new that you never have before whether its the wet nose of St. Bernard, wooden
       texture of a 500 year old bridge, or the precisely crafted stone work of a centuries old cathedral.

  4. Sniff to Smell: Every day, strive to smell something new. These smells will stamp this experience
      in your memory so that if that scent comes wafting past your nose again in your life, you will be
      transported back to the time and place where you first smelled that scent.

   5. Lick to Taste: This is my favorite, search out something to taste/eat that you never have before.
       Not only will this help stamp out your hunger, but it will help you to experience and appreciate the
       culture of the destination that you are visiting.

Learning to "Grok" is an essential practice while traveling. While it is true that we travel for some much needed R&R, we must strive to "grok" the experience so that we can cement memories with those with whom we travel and be a able to gain a better appreciation and knowledge of the world in which we live.

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Yvoire : Medieval Rose of France

Nestled along the shores of Lake Geneva are several gems. One can discover adventure on both the Swiss and French side of the lake. One of the most popular tourist stops along the lake is found in the heart of the french side of the lake called Evian. Why is it a tourist trap? Because of Evian water. That cool alp spring water that is bottled there and sold at your local grocery store for an exuberant price. What many people fail to miss as they scurry to the spring of tourism that is Evian, is the quaint town of Yvoire.





Located 30 Kilometers or so west of Evian on the shore of Lake Geneva, Yvoire is a medieval town steeped in history. A town, predominantly owned by the Savoys back in the day, that has seen it share of battles and history through the centuries. Today, the village of Yvoire is recognized as one of the International Laureates of Floral Decorations and is a member of the Association of the Most Beautiful Villages of France. Why is it considered one of the most beautiful villages in France? Well I'll tell you.

The journey to get there itself is relaxing and picturesque. To get there you can drive or do what i did and take one of Lake Geneva's steamships across the Lake from the Swiss side. Riding the ship is a good way to see the area. You will find yourself on the lake surrounded by the alps, sailboats, and the occasional kayak or paddle boat.

Once in the village, spending some time relaxing around the towns medieval ruins helps you to take in the experience. The village is filled with different craft and souvenir shops as well as your pick of gelato and crepe stands. Ducks and Swans lounge by the lake side and are always up for a snack from visitors.

By far one of the main reasons that it is recognized as one of France's treasures is that it is bursting with a variety flowers and shrubbery. Walking down the narrow medieval streets and corridors one notices that the stone walls, quaint homes, and shop entrances are bathed in green vines and bursting with colorful flowers of all kinds. I suggest going in the spring months when everything is in bloom. People spend hours wandering the streets of the village, indulging themselves in mountains of gelato and relaxing on the pier next to the castle taking in the floral beauty and historical architecture that remains from centuries of history. This is by far one of my favorite little gems in Europe.



Yvoire is a historical time capsule that is as much a must see as Evian minus the crowds. Its medieval city walls and stone clad castle ruins give the village a sense of Romanticism and intrigue. Blooming flowers and vibrant vines will help you to relax and enjoy a small piece of the beauty that Europe has to offer.